Rest Day
Another awesome sleep of some 7 hours solid, obviously helped by the antics and alcohol of last night.
Today we have the ‘Puja’. This is the traditional Buddhist ceremony held before we set foot on Everest, Chomolungma, Mother Goddess of the Earth.
It is to give us good luck and assist our safe return.
After breakfast, at about 10am, we assemble around the cairn like construction of stones which marks the entrance to our camp and is decorated with fags and ribbons. It has a form of altar and on one side Juniper is burnt on a small fire to provide incense!
All over this part of Nepal there are lots monuments and brightly coloured lines of flags strung from rock to rock. As these flutter in the breeze they are supposed to bring good luck.
There are some 50 climbers and 20 trekkers here and along with the climbing Sherpas and camp staff we must number some 125 people.
All the climbing Sherpas are dressed smartly in black trousers, their bright blue down Himex wind proofs, white Himex caps and wraparound sunglasses... ‘Tres Cool’.. They are sat neatly in rows in front of the ‘Altar’. The ones to the left hand side lightly splutter as periodically they are engulfed in Juniper smoke as the light wind constantly shifts and swirls.
Everyone is encouraged to place an object on or near the ‘Altar’ to have it blessed. A lot of people choose ice axes, harnesses and boots. Some choose something a little more sentimental like photographs and jewellery. Bizarrely someone even had one ‘Ipad 3’ blessed, which is going to the summit! I had a very special small stone placed on the ‘Altar’, which I hope to leave on the summit.
The Sherpas start to chant, a low hum, tea is poured for everyone, and rice is handed around.
At various parts of what turns out to be an hour and a half ceremony rice is thrown in the air.
Of course all the boys from WWTW take this as an opportunity, like errant schoolboys in morning chapel, to throw rice at their colleagues, trying to get it in their hair and down their necks. As its quite fun, I join in a little. Whilst there is an air of formality we have been encouraged to take photographs and move around as we please. Our rice throwing silliness is taken in good heart. Others have also joined in, even the odd Sherpa or two!
It’s another glorious sunny morning and the setting is unique and moving.
As the chants come to an end, trays of food and pastries are handed around, together with beakers of white rice wine and tots of whiskey. I am not sure this rice wine is an export opportunity and I am quite relieved when Wisey makes me ‘neck the remainder in one go.
It tastes like alcoholic rice milk.....er.... which is what it is!!
Then everyone starts to wish each other good luck. Everyone is respectful of this mountain and especially the notorious Khumbu Icefall and this ceremony is all about a safe return.
We all shake hands, wish each other good luck and as is the modern way, men are hugged by men as much as women. No kisses.... though you are on your guard with Pierre our tame Frenchmen and Serge our Russian Bear.
There is an incredible air of goodwill, friendliness, fellowship and happiness in the air. In this extraordinary setting, surrounded by towering white peaks, huge glaciers and rock piles, we meek and fragile humans have come together with the sole purpose of climbing these massive mountains. We need luck on our side.
Taking ourselves out of our armchairs, accepting the risks and accepting the challenge to just experience something different. To find out how our bodies will cope, how far we can get, what it will be like up there and how we might feel.
Once again I am overcome with a huge emotion, one of genuine happiness that 130 odd people can feel so at peace with each other, united in an understanding as to what and why we are doing this. Once again the sunglasses come in handy as a tear emerges. These ex boot necks are complete cry babies!!
I came on this trip expecting to meet the classic unsatisfied, insecure persons who hoped to complete themselves by getting to the top of the world’s highest mountain. After 4 weeks and lots of chats over meals, on the trek, in tents and over beers I have been gladly disappointed.
These people are just hungry for life, maybe greedy for life. To a person, this mountain is just another small step on their life’s journey. These are people who have flourishing careers, large successful businesses, families, who give and raise money for good causes. Vain enough to compete in marathons, iron man triathlons and all manner of sporting excellence but people who ordinarily would not have the chance to experience all that that climbing this mountain has to offer without an organisation like Himex.
The WWTW guys too have the opportunity to maximise their chances of reaching the summit and minimise the chances of injuring their bodies further.
Some ‘proper’ climbers are disparaging about commercial mountain enterprises such as these. I read Reinhold Messners book on his first ascent of Everest without oxygen in 1978.
Whilst I admire him as probably the world’s greatest mountaineer, did he start a business from scratch in China, now employing 350 people and raise a family of two children, did he start up a company in the US now employing 150 people and raise a family of five children, did he ever become CEO of a listed company in New Zealand or head up the Civil Engineering department for an Australian State. The list goes on.
None of us could or wanted to be professional climbers but are fortunate enough to be able to experience something of their world. We are grateful.
I rest in the afternoon, catch up on emails.
It’s been a lovely day. I think I will sleep well.....I do, almost 8 hours straight!
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