Sat 5th May 2012 Everest Base Camp

After breakfast we are told there will be a briefing at 10am.

Some people haven’t even surfaced this morning after the indulgences of the previous night. For special note seem to be Dan and Martin from WWTW. Martin slept the night in the White Pod and Dan suffered, not quite in silence, for many hours after the end of the party.

Once gathered in the White Pod, the smell of alcohol still in the ascendance, the mood was one of puzzlement. Did we misbehave that badly that we were all in for a group reprimand?

Then to add to the strange situation about 9 Sherpas, including the Head Sirdar, (Head Sherpa) Perbar Tashi joined us, sitting on the floor in front of Russ.

Russ then started off, hoping we had a good party. Seems like we are not in for a reprimand.

You could detect the emotion and sadness in his voice as he started off.

The Sherpa who suffered a stroke on the Icefall had deteriorated, was on life support and was almost certainly going to die. Russ said they were going to set up a Trust Fund for his dependents.

He then went on to say that he, the Sherpas and the Guides had never seen both the Icefall and the Lhotse Face in such a dangerous state. They still had some 120 loads to take through the Icefall between about 25 Sherpas which would mean additional 20 trips through the Icefall for each Sherpa. There was also no real chance that the Lhotse Face would be safe enough to climb this season.

As a result, having consulted extensively amongst the Ice Doctors (who maintain the Icefall), other expedition leaders, the Sherpas and Guides he had decided, with a very heavy heart and with great reluctance to cease the expedition with immediate effect.

You could cut the tension with a knife. There were tears in Russ’s eyes. It was difficult to believe.

He went on to say that the dangers to everyone were just too great to justify. They said that they expected a major disaster if everyone kept climbing this year although he hoped they were wrong.

Then Perba Tashi spoke, reiterating Russ’s words but then the emotion got to the better of him. This revered man who has been to the summit of Everest no less than 19 times left the room to hide his tears.

Another Sherpa spoke and then some members. We were all quite shocked but felt that this was why we were signed up to the best team in the valley. They had the courage to tell a lot of people who had paid a lot of money that it was too dangerous to proceed.

There were a lot of emotional scenes as the meeting broke up. I immediately followed Russ out to his office asked for his Trust Fund donation page. He hadn’t made one yet but he created one in his notebook. I made my donation. I was planning on taking a helicopter back to Kathmandu in order to be reunited with the one luxury I longed for more than anything else.....a bath and get home quicker. Now I would have to walk, the bath and my homecoming would have to wait!

Back at the White Pod everyone was consoling each other. Life dreams had been shattered. Sacrifices in terms of money and time had been in vain.

For some this was a one shot chance for others they were already planning to come back.

For me, I had already realised how many more things were more important than the summit of this mountain. Before I went up through the Icefall for the first time I really did stp and think about what my priorities were..

I enjoyed the physical challenge and enjoyed the journey, especially the trek into Base Camp, but I did not really enjoy the down time and the length of the whole process.

It has been a fantastic experience and given the chance I felt I would have stood on the summit. It would have hurt but I would have got there.

Do I feel an urge to come back and try again? No I don’t. It’s a huge commitment. It felt like such a long time away from family, friends, and work and there are so many other things to do, places to visit.

It’s off the ‘Bucket List’. Over a small Scotch one of the other climbers, Hector from Mexico said something very poignant.

He said ‘You have reached your Everest, you have got divorced, you have kept your house, your children are happy, your business is recovering and you are in love with your girlfriend. You want to go home, so go home’.

I realised he was completely right, the room went misty, I turned away to compose myself but it was no good. I wrapped my arms around him....... ‘You are bloody right... you wise old fart you are bloody right!’

I am coming home. If you want to see one of the most beautiful parts of the world you can just trek up here. If you want to stand on top of the world you have to like tents and spending a lot of time doing very little. If you want to enjoy the experience via a book or a television that’s cool too.

If it’s in you to do something then ‘just do it’. You will not know what you will discover out there or inside yourself until you do.

I wanted to do it, I did it. There is plenty more to do, something else has just replaced it on the Bucket List......it always does.

Good luck and happy travels.

Mark

Fri 4^rd May 2012 Camp 1 6500m to Everest Base Camp

Minus 20 Deg C, it is FREEZING this morning!

I am completely organised, hot chocolate, porridge, boots on, kit packed and am away with the first group at 4.55am. Mustard keen!

It has snowed a few inches overnight and I can appreciate the beauty of the Western Cwm as I scamper and skate on the ice and rocks behind the lead pair before we track midway into the middle of the valley. Weren’t we supposed to put on our crampons around here somewhere?

The sun is starting to shine on the mountains in front of us. It’s a wonderful sight.

It’s amazing how quickly we make our way down. It took me about 4 hours to come up from Camp 1 but will take me about an hour to get down!

Eventually we come to the first crevasse and ladder, just before Camp 1 then I realise all of the lead group already have there crampons on! I stop to put mine on but the bottoms of my boots are layered with packed snow so quite a few people catch and overtake me.

After passing Camp 1 we soon reach ‘Blood and Guts’ ladder. The start of the really dangerous part. I am with Doc, Alexis (TV man) with Wisey is just behind us, despite a couple of unscheduled quite traumatic ‘bathroom’ stops.

We can now see the Icefall in the light. It is indeed quite scary. Huge areas of ice up on the Western flank of Everest are poised to cascade down onto our path. Four to Six storey slabs have already split away from the main icefall, directly above us, leaning preposterously like a succession of Leaning Towers of Pizza. We have to proceed directly over the rubble field where a multitude of buried fixed ropes bear testimony to the number of icefalls and avalanches which have already taken place this year.

I note that Doc and Bruce (one of our guides) are not clipping into the fixed rope in order to speed up progress. In fact Bruce, who previously had been assisting us over the ladders, has now sprinted on ahead. This is so dangerous that as far as the guides are concerned it’s every man for him or herself.

We have just entered the top of the rubble field when it happens.

There is a loud crack and the sound of falling ice and snow.

A terror goes through my soul. I am completely stranded. There is nowhere to go.

Doc just below me stops in his tracks and turns to look up, expecting the worse.

Time stands still, where is the cascade of ice, snow and rock?

It doesn’t come; the fall is somewhere high behind us. There is no time to dwell, speed is of the essence. These falls seem to come in pairs.

We race through the Icefield, jumping small crevasses without clipping on the safety lines. It takes less than 20 mins to get to the safety of the ‘Football Field’.

Looking back upwards it’s a scene of destruction and looming destruction. We don’t dwell too long, it’s getting warmer and we still have the danger of the big and small popcorn to negotiate.

Progress is swift, don’t look up, don’t ponder, what happens happens. Concentrate on your technique; assess where to clip on and where not to.

There are still quite a few people coming up. Thankful to be going down and not up, down and down we go.

Eventually the Base Camp area comes into view and just after 815am, Harry, with three Sherpas are there on a small ice hillock with some hot sweet black Sherpa Tea.

As they have bothered to make the effort I stop to have a drink. Wisey, who is probably on a mission to find a civilised commode bypasses the tea stop.

Henry, Alexis, Doc and I enjoy the sunshine and the safety, and then make our way down and back to Base Camp.

There is a full English Breakfast awaiting; some of the Guides have a beer in hand.

Lots of man and a few woman hugs. It’s good to be home.

Showers, lunch, beers and whiskey.

A party is organised and just after supper Doc mans the decks, some people from another expedition have been invited and fro about 8pm the White Pod is transformed, once again, into the coolest, wildest night club in the valley.

Once again the acrobatic drunken climbers scale the White Pod metal frame until the early hours....but something is amiss. Where is Russ? No suited disco dancing entrance as before.

I retire at 1145am, just as the battery for the music runs out. I drift off to sleep as I hear them trying to start up the backup generators.

I later hear they get it working and continue until almost 3am. I am dead to the world, thankfully.

Thurs 3^rd May 2012 Camp 1 6500m

A rest day, but the LAST day up here.

More sadness yesterday as one of our Sherpas has a major stroke on the way down. He’s in a very bad way and is evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu. His prognosis is not good.

There are more grumbles and at least on more fall of ice as the other group make their way down.

Today yet another climber gets hit on the Lhotse Face this time very seriously, in the face.

It takes four hours to get him down and our Doc, Francis, is involved.

The guy has a badly broken jaw, was unconscious for about an hour and has right hand side paralysis.

The helicopter arrives at Camp 2, some 22,000 ft in old money, on the very limit of the aircraft’s limit to make the evacuation.

An Italian pilot, very well known and admired locally makes an impeccable landing and at his own personal risk accepts the semi conscious patient into the left hand side seat (the patient could at anytime awake and act in a volatile manner).

He scoots off and turns down the valley, all within ground effect (within 10ft of the ground) due to the extreme altitude and off towards Lukla Hospital.

I pack, leave my downsuit up in one of the storage tents and after supper get to my tent for 8pm. Attempted sleep at 9am, alarm at 4am, off down at 5am. YIPPEE.

Don’t get too excited, it’s the gauntlet of the Icefall!

Weds 2^st May 2012 Camp 1 6500m

Groundhog Day.

We repeat the breakfast we did yesterday. We repeat the walk we did yesterday.

I set off a bit later than yesterday and don’t feel so good. I am one of the last up.

The lunch is similar to yesterday. The weather is the same as yesterday.

I almost join the ‘cards club’ but am just to slow to step in.

I am struggling with finding appropriate music on my Ipod, just like yesterday

Supper is similar to yesterday. Spam is involved for the fifth day running.

The wind blows the same as yesterday.

Tonight is my last night with Greg. He slips back into the ‘hole’. He has snored on previous nights but the wind has been louder. Tonight he ups his game dramatically. It’s an Olympic effort.

The falling into me, the wind, his snoring.... I can take my pick of any to ensure I get almost zero sleep. It’s a fantastic all round effort to make me determined, that come what may I will carry my own tent up to the Camp 2 next time to guarantee I don’t have to go through this again.

He is up at 4am to leave Camp at 5am to return to Base Camp. Lucky blighter, at least I have the tent on my own for the last night.

By the way he is a lovely bloke....providing he is sleeping next to SOMEONE ELSE !!!

Tues 1^st May 2012 Camp 1 6500m

Not feeling great. Greg is talking to me ...just. I suggest he might like to relay his floor to avoid any more personal injury! Meaning the rocks of course.

We all go for a hike up to the bottom of the Lhotse Face. It’s supposed to be an hour and a half yomp with 200m vertical height gain but I seem to be able to keep up with the lead group and do it within an hour. Good for confidence. Photos and down within 30 mins.

Lunch and the news that yet more people have been injured on the Lhotse Face and we are definitely not going up to Camp 3. Apparently one of the world’s most famous female climbers, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and her husband had spent the previous night at Camp 3 and suffered one of their most frightening nights on a mountain due to the hail of rocks smashing onto and around their tent. This is a woman who has summated all the worlds’ 8,000m peaks without Oxygen.

Another enormously boring afternoon. I am joined in the tent by Greg. It is stiflingly hot even with the vents and doors open. Then when the wind gusts its icy cold.

Still three nights to go.

With the news that we are not going to Camp 3 my morale fades.

Whilst there are some really taxing physical days I know I can do 8 and 9 hour days. On Mont Blanc my summit day was 14 hours. I always go at a pace that I can sustain for 8 or 9 hours. It’s a mental thing because this is where I want to be, this is what I want to be doing.

It’s easier at 50 than it was at 21 years old because you have chosen to be here and don’t want to be elsewhere, to be in a pub, by a pool or making money however the mental strain of the lack of cerebral stimulation is clearly something that is getting to me.

Some people are good at spending day after day with the same group of people in the same place essentially waiting. Yes we are acclimatising but there are so many hours of emptiness. I have no communication, no worries, no book, and no stimulation.

These are my issues. From seeking periods of peace and quiet in my ‘normal’ busy life to this. This, rather than anything else may provide the limitation to my mountaineering aspirations. It just takes too long!

Tonight the wind is really up and I sleep is again poor although Greg’s ‘ground works’ have improved our sleeping inter contact.

Mon 30^th April 2012 Camp 1 6500m

I awake and despite my wind interrupted sleep feel good.

After breakfast I decide to go for a ‘bimble’. As much to try on my downsuit as to take some exercise. We will be using downsuits to go any higher, onto camp 3 and above.

 I get it out in my tent and ensure the price tag and shop label has been taken off. Not so good for ‘Mountain Street Cred’ otherwise!

It’s a bright red North Face ‘Telly Tubby’ suit as it’s probably half a size too big for me.

I have to adjust my harness to allow for the extra bulk and off I go.

I just wander up the hill for 30 mins or so then wander back. Job done, it’s quite hot so next time I will wear fewer layers underneath. Mission accomplished I wander into lunch in a fairly sanctimonious mood as only Francis (the Doc from WWTW) has also ventured out.

No we begin to learn that the Lhotse Face is in a very dangerous state. Already over the past two days five people have been hit by falling rocks. The mountain is very ‘dry’. Meaning that very little snow has fallen for some weeks and therefore there is nothing to bind the smaller rocks, up to the size of footballs, to the slope. The face is some 1300 to 1800m high (4,500 to 6,000ft) so these rocks are almost at terminal velocity (120-180mph). They can and will kill.

The guides and Sherpas are so concerned that they are considering not going to Camp 3 because of the danger.

Later that day two more people are reported to have been hit. One has sustained a major shoulder injury, the other a hand injury. \For both of them their expeditions are over.

I rest but try not to sleep in the afternoon. Already I am as bored as I have been for a very long time.

Tonight my tent partner Greg, a 58 year old American, has removed some stones from his side of the tent, causing a dip and I spend the whole night initially gently nudging him and latterly not so gently nudging him as he keeps ‘falling’ on me.

I am not sure if he is going to talk to me in the morning! Meanwhile the wind howls and crashes against our tent.   

Sun 29^th April 2012 Camp 2 6500m

Rest Day

After my immense sleep I actually feel totally refreshed in complete contrast to yesterday when, apart from completing the London Marathon in 2005 (when suffering from a stomach bug and in unseasonably hot sunshine) I have never felt so exhausted.

My moments of exhaustion and emotion were captured by the TV crew doing the WWTW documentary. Just my luck my only moment of fame will be a crying mess in amongst the soy sauce and tomato ketchup bottles!

This is only day 2 at Camp 2. We are scheduled to stay here 3 more nights, then go up to camp 3 halfway up the Lhotse face and back for another night at Camp 2 before going down to Base Camp.

Even by the end of this first day I am regretting not bringing up a book (in the interests of weights and space) as there is the Mess Tent or my ‘shared’ tent and nowhere else to go.

Our tent has a ‘card’ circle who once the meals are finished dive into their game. They are playing ‘Hearts’, a kind of reverse trumps where the aim is to end up with as few a points as possible. Only Hearts and the Queen of Spades score. It looks intimidatingly fiendish and I lack the courage to force my way in if one of the ‘players’ is temporarily absent.

1230 lunch, afternoon nap, 5.30pm supper, bed around 8pm, listen to music sleep around 10pm after listening to my IPod.

Tonight the wind howls around the tent. Huge gusts can be heard approaching, just like a train and then batter and shake the tent with such ferocity that you are immediately awoken and wonder how the tent has not collapsed. In fact we learn that it is only due the tents being occupied that in this wind they do not literally fly off the mountainside.

Sleep is a pattern of drifting in and out of consciousness between seemingly hurricane force winds.

Sat 28^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m to Camp 2 6500m

I didn’t have time to post the experience of the previous group’s journey up to Camp 2. On the way through the Icefall they were narrowly missed by two avalanches / ice breakaways. Either of which could have been fatal. Then when the whole group, apart from Annie and Amanda (who had turned back to stay at Camp 1) had passed amp 1 they were again narrowly missed by a huge avalanche off the Nuptse (right hand side) face. This was so large that the ensuing snow blast and cloud flowed all the way down the Icefield and caused us to rush out of our briefing assuming there had been a massive failure within the Icefield and tens of people had been caught in it.

Incredibly, because it was just after ‘Sherpa Rush Hour’ and sheer good luck, only one Sherpa was caught in it. He was picked up and dumped in a crevasse and was found within the hour suffering from three broken ribs, a fractured skull and hypothermia. He was helicoptered out and is recovering in Kathmandu. If Annie and Amanda had not turned back they would have been caught in the middle of it and would not have stood much of a chance.

Friday afternoon I wrote a hasty will and wrote letters to my children, Olivia and my parents with instructions where to find them on my computer should something happen to me.

I was worried, as were we all. I don’t want to die just yet, but I am not pulling out and will accept the fortunes and fate which await me. I am greedy for life but not willing to step into a bag of cotton wool just yet.

Its times like this which teach you the value of life, what is important to you, what your priorities really are. Suddenly climbing this mountain is not THAT important. Other things are much more important.

No matter, I am still going to face my fears and climb tomorrow.

Up at 12am for a 1am departure.

Every single detail and action planned to the minute. Up dressed and about to get to breakfast bang on time when ...... yup you’ve guessed it. Nature calls, there is a queue so by the time I get to the mess tent for porridge and hot chocolate I am just about the last to arrive!

‘C’mon Mark, you should have eaten by now’ Russ encourages! Mild stress builds up, I multi task, putting on my harness and repacking kit whilst gulping spoonfuls of porridge and hot chocolate. Just like being back in the bloody Royal Marines!

I am ready, five minutes before the deadline! Where is Russ to offer apologetic praise now?

We set off; it’s cold but not too cold, about minus 10 Degrees C.

It’s a 25 minute walk to the crampon point, the pace is reasonable. We don our crampons as we take to the Icefield, off the rocky path, then the pace quickens somewhat.

I keep up for the first hour but then the group splits effectively in two with me in the second group. We encounter our first large crevasse, spanned by two ladders bound together and secured with two ‘safety lines’ either side into which we clip in. Should we fall hopefully these lines will ensure we don’t fall hundreds of feet to our death.

The first wobbly crevasse crossing under our belts the Icefield steepens as we continue through what is known as the smaller ‘popcorn’. These are blocks of ice which stand between 1 to 2m high. After almost 2 hours we encounter the larger popcorn, ice blocks of between 2 to 4m high. More ladder crossings (there are some 25 such crossings in the Icefield). Any of these blocks might fall at any time and if they do, one is ‘toast’. The exertion of the climb does a great job of keeping any fear at bay.

We then reach a relatively flat open ‘safe’ area known as ‘the football field’ after almost three hours.

Here we take a quick break as from this point, for the next 50 minutes or so comes the most dangerous passage of the Icefield. The group which came through the previous night had two ice avalanches which they had to avoid and which rattled quite a few of the climbers and guides.

As we progress up this quite steep section the evidence of previous ice falls is obvious. Great blocks the size of fridges strewn in a long path through which we have to pick our way. Fixed lines partly submerged from previous falls and new rope hastily fixed to replace them.

As I round a corner there is suddenly a loud rumbling from high up ahead. I am midway through the main rubble covered path of a great many previous avalanches. My worst fears may have come to be. I have no obvious cover. I look up ahead expecting to see a great white wave heading towards me. I am tired and with nowhere to go I just accept my fate. A very strange acceptance, if death is to be now then I feel a strange peace. The wait is only seconds but it feels like minutes.

 Luckily the fall has not come down my channel and I am spared. I continue upwards.

I later learn that the group up ahead hear one big crack and rumble but see nothing. Then a few minutes later there is much bigger crack and rumble followed by a major ice fall (which is what I heard). In a rather comical manner (in retrospect) three of our climbers and two Sherpas ended up taking separate evasive action seeking sanctuary on top of the same large ice block to the right of the path of the avalanche. There was a Tom and Jerry style scramble in which it was every man for himself but only room for barely three of the five as the ice and snow stream and ensuing cloud enveloped them all. The last two having to cling to the rear side of the block as best they could. All avoided injury.

Onwards and upwards I plod. Across the crevasses, ladders, until we reach the safety point of a large crevasse crossing known as ‘Blood and Guts ladder’. Sadly, some ten days previously a Sherpa from another team had not clipped onto the safety lines and had fallen. He sustained a major head injury and when recovering the body his blood had covered the sides of the crevasse. Another gory reminder of the dangers of this mountain.

As we neared Camp 1 we encountered a very cold wind which after the quite hard and sweaty work of the Icefield chilled to the very bone and a number of our group took refuge in one of the Camp 1 tents at 6,100m. Its 6am, we have been climbing for 5 hours.

We boil water and try and eat something, the wind has really picked up and it’s almost 7am before we continue onto Camp 2.

Almost immediately I begin to feel weak. The stop really hasn’t done me any good and our group of five splits into two with myself and Carl (one of the WWTW) at the back. I think the relief of surviving the Icefall has taken its toll as well.

After an hour we can see our destination, or so we think. The immense beauty of the Western Cwm is just about lost on me as I struggle for energy along the snowfield which leads up the middle, then veers off to left-hand side to the string of some hundred tents which make up Camp 2.

When we are about 300m from the nearest tents I radio in our position and estimate that we will be in camp within 30 mins. Adrian (chief guide), upon hearing this quickly corrects my eta as 1 hour 45 mins. I am too tired to respond but assume he has made a mistake.

He hasn’t. We are the very last camp in the line and Carl and I arrive exhausted, at about 11am. The sun has been out for the last hour and a half and transformed the valley from an icy wind blown freezer to an oven hot inferno in a matter of minutes.

On entering the mess tent I am very emotional with exhaustion and relief at ........well still being alive. Everyone has found it hard but Carl and I are totally and utterly drained.

Lunch is served at 1230pm. I have just sat, head on the table or in my hands trying to rehydrate and recover, hardly speaking for an hour and a half. I eat some of the lunch then make my way to the tent to collapse for a few hours. With no energy I accept the uncomfortable large rocks underneath my bed mat and just curl up around them to minimise the discomfort.

Supper at 5.30pm. I manage to eat all of it. Carl is still in a bad way

I get back to my tent at 7pm. I have the energy to move some rocks. Asleep by 8pm, I sleep the sleep of the dead until 8am. I am feeling much, much better. I might still be able to climb this mountain after all!

Fri 27^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Briefing on the treacherous Khumbu Icefall

Bags packed

Shower....whilst Monca wasnt looking.....

We leave at 1am Saturday morning.

All a bit nervous.

6 nights on the mountain, four at Camp 2, one at Camp 3, one at Camp 2 then Base Camp.

More later!!!!

Thurs 26^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Feeling a bit better today but I am not going to do any more ice training, which is scheduled for this afternoon and tonight. The Icefall is not very technical so I feel comfortable with my skills, its much more important that I am well rested and get through Saturday morning well.

I spend time in the White Pod, reading, blogging and emailing. Business seems to be thriving in my absence which is both reassuring and ominous!

We have to select our food for the six nights away. Whilst we will get food at Camp 2 we still need it for 8 to 9 hours on Saturday and for the trip to and night on camp 3.

After lunch I try to take a shower but am accused by the Camp Doctor, a Spanish woman of origin called Monica that I am being ‘selfish’.... despite the fact that all the other team have showered and I was waiting in line behind the Guides. She makes this accusation in front of two other members (paying clients), both in my group who I later discover found this quite funny. I leave the situation as I can feel my blood boiling. I have felt from the start that this woman doesn’t like me and later when I discuss this with other members there is a general dislike of her.

If I want someone to talk to me in that way ...I can always pick up the phone to my ex wife!

I go to my tent to rest and pack for Saturday.

So when she appears at dinner in our tent I say...’Oh here’s the ‘Shower Monitor (Monica....get it)’’....... to which she retorts ‘if you think I am going to apologies I am not, you will just have to get over it’.

A thoroughly professional response from our Camp Doctor.....NOT!

On a lighter note a stray dog that had befriended our camp for the past week was taken 5 miles down the valley today by a kindly Base Camper who the knew the dog from the previous year.

This Labrador 'mongrel' had been creeping into tents and indeed sleeping bags at night much to the surprise, concern and indeed anger of many people. If you raised your voice to it or picked up a stone (who would do that) it gave its best 'Mutley' impression and you couldnt but take pity on it.

Well about five hours after it left and we felt safe leaving our tents open to air..... it had returned !!!

Sleep at about 9.15pm. Awoken at 12pm by the other group leaving but soon asleep again and awake at 6.45am to a very, very frosty tent.

Weds 25^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

I would have married 14 years today if I hadn’t been divorced earlier this month!

After breakfast we are given a briefing and the groups are confirmed.

Basically the groups are to stay the same, although our group will begin to climb after the other group.

There are some concerns over the state of the icefall but we are all aware that this part of the climb can never be guaranteed as completely safe but we will start through it at 1am so as to go at the safest time.

We are now scheduled to leave here at 1am on Sat 28^th April; the other group will leave at 1am on Fri 27^th April (i.e. tonight).

We will aim to reach Camp 2 which is at 6,400m, so the climb is a similar vertical height to the Base Camp to Lobuche summit but the terrain is more technical, we are at a much greater altitude and the linear distance is far greater. We have to pass Camp 1 at the top of the Icefall by 7am otherwise we may not be allowed to progress to Camp 2. This is because beyond the Icefall is the Western Cym where the geography dictates that this amazing natural spectacle often becomes an airless suntrap with temperatures reaching up to 40 deg C. Slowing progress of even the most hardened athlete to almost a halt.

We then aim to spend 4 nights at Camp 2 before climbing to Camp 3, halfway up the steep Lhotse Face at some 7,300m (over 24,000ft) and attempting to spend the night there, perched on a hewn out ledge, over a 3,000ft drop before descending to Camp 2 the following morning.

One more night at Camp 2 then a descent back to Base Camp. We should return on the morning of Fri 4^th May!

I go to lunch, feeling hungry and it’s Pacific Salmon with salad and a pasta salad. I am a bit late but devour loads when I then find out we are scheduled to take a 3 hour trip into the lower reaches of the Icefall.

I then have to hurry my lunch, hurry to get rigged and am in the appointed time, properly togged up to have to wait for someone else who also did not get the brief.

Consequently we set off at quite a lick to cover a 30 min hike to the start of the ice in 20 min. My stomach is not happy; usually this would pass so I soldier on. We get to the Icefall, don crampons and start clambering up, down and around ice formations. I now have a painful stitch, I drop back a little, the stitch becomes a stomach cramp, which then becomes a retch...... I am forced to a halt. Another retch and a partial vomit... I try to go on but it’s no use.

Now what would my Mum say..... Excessive physical exertion immediately after a big meal? For the first time in 50 years and some 33 years after I left home...Mum ...you were right.

I turn around and slowly, feeling like something out of Napoleons Army on the retreat from the failed campaign on Moscow, I retrace our steps slowly.

I am feeling absolutely awful. Stopping every 100m to bend over and try and ease the pain. All energy escapes me and a return trip which should take me some 45 mins takes almost an hour and a half.

Everyone passes me.

I collapse into my tent at about 4pm and don’t emerge until breakfast the following day.

Children.....listen to your Mums!!!!! 

PS We had our first retiree depart this morning, Chimu who I shared with a room with early on in the trek in. A really, really nice guy who has quite a large property rental business in Texas, five children and has set up a charity helping Peruvian homeless. He is travelling with his family in Europe in June / July and I hope he will pop by on his travels. He did the first half of the trip, but found it a bit taxing, acquired a knee injury but just decided he didn’t want or need it enough so called in a chopper. He also donated an additional $10,000, half to a Sherpa Charity and half to be shared between the Sherpas. A lovely guy who was big enough and courageous enough to make the call to quit when his heart was no longer in it.

Tues 24^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Rest Day

Another awesome sleep of some 7 hours solid, obviously helped by the antics and alcohol of last night.

Today we have the ‘Puja’. This is the traditional Buddhist ceremony held before we set foot on Everest, Chomolungma, Mother Goddess of the Earth.

It is to give us good luck and assist our safe return.

After breakfast, at about 10am, we assemble around the cairn like construction of stones which marks the entrance to our camp and is decorated with fags and ribbons. It has a form of altar and on one side Juniper is burnt on a small fire to provide incense!

All over this part of Nepal there are lots monuments and brightly coloured lines of flags strung from rock to rock. As these flutter in the breeze they are supposed to bring good luck.

There are some 50 climbers and 20 trekkers here and along with the climbing Sherpas and camp staff we must number some 125 people.

All the climbing Sherpas are dressed smartly in black trousers, their bright blue down Himex wind proofs, white Himex caps and wraparound sunglasses... ‘Tres Cool’.. They are sat neatly in rows in front of the ‘Altar’. The ones to the left hand side lightly splutter as periodically they are engulfed in Juniper smoke as the light wind constantly shifts and swirls.

Everyone is encouraged to place an object on or near the ‘Altar’ to have it blessed. A lot of people choose ice axes, harnesses and boots. Some choose something a little more sentimental like photographs and jewellery. Bizarrely someone even had one ‘Ipad 3’ blessed, which is going to the summit! I had a very special small stone placed on the ‘Altar’, which I hope to leave on the summit.

The Sherpas start to chant, a low hum, tea is poured for everyone, and rice is handed around.

At various parts of what turns out to be an hour and a half ceremony rice is thrown in the air.

Of course all the boys from WWTW take this as an opportunity, like errant schoolboys in morning chapel, to throw rice at their colleagues, trying to get it in their hair and down their necks. As its quite fun, I join in a little. Whilst there is an air of formality we have been encouraged to take photographs and move around as we please. Our rice throwing silliness is taken in good heart. Others have also joined in, even the odd Sherpa or two!

It’s another glorious sunny morning and the setting is unique and moving.

As the chants come to an end, trays of food and pastries are handed around, together with beakers of white rice wine and tots of whiskey. I am not sure this rice wine is an export opportunity and I am quite relieved when Wisey makes me ‘neck the remainder in one go.

It tastes like alcoholic rice milk.....er.... which is what it is!!

Then everyone starts to wish each other good luck. Everyone is respectful of this mountain and especially the notorious Khumbu Icefall and this ceremony is all about a safe return.

We all shake hands, wish each other good luck and as is the modern way, men are hugged by men as much as women. No kisses.... though you are on your guard with Pierre our tame Frenchmen and Serge our Russian Bear.

There is an incredible air of goodwill, friendliness, fellowship and happiness in the air. In this extraordinary setting, surrounded by towering white peaks, huge glaciers and rock piles, we meek and fragile humans have come together with the sole purpose of climbing these massive mountains. We need luck on our side.

Taking ourselves out of our armchairs, accepting the risks and accepting the challenge to just experience something different. To find out how our bodies will cope, how far we can get, what it will be like up there and how we  might feel.

Once again I am overcome with a huge emotion, one of genuine happiness that 130 odd people can feel so at peace with each other, united in an understanding as to what and why we are doing this. Once again the sunglasses come in handy as a tear emerges. These ex boot necks are complete cry babies!!

I came on this trip expecting to meet the classic unsatisfied, insecure persons who hoped to complete themselves by getting to the top of the world’s highest mountain. After 4 weeks and lots of chats over meals, on the trek, in tents and over beers I have been gladly disappointed.

These people are just hungry for life, maybe greedy for life. To a person, this mountain is just another small step on their life’s journey. These are people who have flourishing careers, large successful businesses, families, who give and raise money for good causes. Vain enough to compete in marathons, iron man triathlons and all manner of sporting excellence but people who ordinarily would not have the chance to experience all that that climbing this mountain has to offer without an organisation like Himex.

The WWTW guys too have the opportunity to maximise their chances of reaching the summit and minimise the chances of injuring their bodies further.

Some ‘proper’ climbers are disparaging about commercial mountain enterprises such as these. I read Reinhold Messners book on his first ascent of Everest without oxygen in 1978.

Whilst I admire him as probably the world’s greatest mountaineer, did he start a business from scratch in China, now employing 350 people and raise a family of two children, did he start up a company in the US now employing 150 people and raise a family of five children, did he ever become CEO of a listed company in New Zealand or head up the Civil Engineering department for an Australian State. The list goes on.

None of us could or wanted to be professional climbers but are fortunate enough to be able to experience something of their world. We are grateful.

I rest in the afternoon, catch up on emails.

It’s been a lovely day. I think I will sleep well.....I do, almost 8 hours straight!

Mon 23^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Blogging and emailing this morning.

Today some 10 climbers and about 20 trekkers have joined us. The trekkers have a couple of WWTW guys who didn’t make the WWTW Everest team. Andy and Chris. They seem nice guys.

At supper time the camp is full and in the evening we have the privilege of the famous Mr Russel Bryce for company. He has something on his mind tonight as he doesn’t want the usual film being shown in the White Pod and the red wine box in our mess tent is determinedly proffered by him to all. This wine is even worse than the last one we finished.

We are made to finish this one too. I manage to get away with about 3 glasses. Once the taste goes, the edge is definitely taken off the world. Which is pleasant.

As we emerge from out dining tent we are greeted by sounds of jolly people and popular dance music from the White Pod just up above us. In fact as we go inside there is a full on night club in swing.

It only gets worse, flashing head torches are affixed to the walls; beers are handed out at random. Russ decides to ‘Formula One’ a bottle of Champagne...those nearest get drenched and then. the bottle is passed around open foaming mouths!

Woody (one of the head guides) strips to his wiry waist and scales the inside of the White Pod, which is at least 15ft at its highest, using the metal frame to do his best orang-utan impression, swinging by one arm and then one leg. A plethora of concerned drinkers link arms underneath him for when he comes crashing down.

Surprisingly he makes a safe unaided return and shortly after Russ makes his entrance now redressed in suit and tie and gives a solo virtuoso resembling an amateur break dancer who is receiving a 500v electric shock ....... now I know where Chris Dovell gets his dancing technique from!

Thankfully the electrical power runs out at 1145pm and we all have to retire to our tents.

Sun 22nd April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Not great sleep, often wake up about 4.30am feeling cold. Rubbish sleeping bag.....-30 deg C......pah, salesmen !

Spent the morning on the blog. It takes ages doing this blog but thanks for the positive feedback, clearly the most amusing part so far seems to be the double No 2s on the summit of Lobuche! Ok so now I know were the sweet spot is for my readers I can compose accordingly!

After  lunch we have a treat, the guides have set up an ‘Icicle Obstacle Course’ which we will go and play on this afternoon.

This consists of 30ft ascents, traverses and descents, together with up and down ladders and a horizontal ladder to simulate a crevasse crossing. This is to practice all our techniques we may need in the icefall.

We spend just under two hours with one group going one way and another going the other way, then everyone turning around and doing it in reverse, crossing each other in the process, which is fun.

It really teaches you how important technique is at this altitude, if your crampons slip on the near vertical ice the weight is often transferred to your arms as well as the other leg and any large exertion needs a lot of panting to recover from.

We all agree every fun park should have one and kids would love it.

I get some rest when we get back; it was really good training but quite tiring too.

Movie tonight is Zombieland. Lots and lots and lots of Zombies dies, but the four heroes and heroines don’t!

Sat 21^st April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Rest Day

The shower scheduled for yesterday took place this morning. It was, OMG, some 10 days after the last one! It did get to the point where even I was appalled at the smell certain parts of my body were making.

We have these hand held showers which resemble small plastic barrels with a handle through the top and a shower head attached to a coiled plastic tube.

You have this filled with hot water; you pump the handle some 20 times and then press the lever on the head to release the water flow.

All this is done in a tent. What you don’t want to do in this climate is find an already full unit, which saves you the walk over to the kitchen tent, strip naked, pump and then douse only to find the water is stone cold...nigh freezing as it is one someone else has used a few hours earlier!! Which is what I did the previous week.

 Once cleansed it’s time for some dhobi (Washing). Socks, underwear and a few tops. A lot of us wear this Mourino wool, Icebreaker tops which supposedly retain a fresh smell for weeks at a time of wearing without washing.....not sure I believe that. It might just be my armpit which smells and not the clothing but there is definitely a strong odour after a week!

I chill after lunch.

The movie choice tonight is Inception. Dreams within dreams, within dreams, within dreams... with Leonardo Di Caprio. Lots of people seem to die but he doesn’t!

Fri 20^th April 2012 Lobuche Summit 6000m to Lobuche Base Camp 4820m to Everest Base Camp 5300m

Woken up at 5am by Alexis’s booming voice in the next tent saying ‘Good alarm clock that’... without thinking, having being risen out of quite a deep sleep I retort ‘...And so is your bloody voice!’

I spent the rest of the morning apologising profusely to Alexis, who is one of the kindest guys on the trip. He eventually replied ‘...And I thought I was speaking so softly’.

We are told to be off by 7am but some of the team have dispensed with breakfast and are off by 6am.

I go over the ‘edge’ at 6.35am. This time I really want to focus on my technique and being on my own I make much, much better, quicker and easier progress than I did last time.

I make Camp 1 in just over an hour just as the other team are coming up to do their two nights.

The feeling of sympathy for them having to go up there and contentment that I don’t have to, is difficult to conceal.

Crampons off and in the rucksack then down the rock face.

Down in 2 hours, last time it was 3 hours so an improvement. The fastest have taken 1 and a half.

Breakfast, then its goodbye to Lobuche Base Camp as I set off for Everest Base Camp.  Relief...... We have all had our fill of the restricted menu and have seen quite enough of this particular mountain, despite the training and acclimatisation being of excellent value.

I am on my own again but enjoying the walk. It’s sunny but with a gentle cooling breeze at my back, perfect trekking conditions.

I make pretty good time, arriving at EBC (Everest Base Camp) in just over 2hrs 45mins, the same time I took on the way up.

Just in time for lunch then afterwards in the White Pod, Harry (the ex RM and SAS) guide cracks open a beer. After 20 mins of ‘chocolate’ discipline, it melts, and myself and most of the WWTW team join in a massive 4 can session ....... 2 pints of weak lager each and the world is fuzzy, communicative, happy place!

The shower can wait until tomorrow!

Another awesome solid sleep. It’s good to be back!

Thurs 19^th April 2012 Lobuche Summit 6000m

Today is spent resting but the guides have put up a rope to an adjacent summit.

I have asked to be excused and apart from a few photographs spend the day resting in bed, reading and listening to music. I can tell that by the end of this expedition my I pod will need a complete overhaul as I am listening to it so much. Even I am now bored with my music tastes!

In the afternoon I have that warning bell from my digestive tract which I was really hoping not hear until tomorrow when we were back in Base Camp.

I try to ignore it but to no avail. Very reluctantly I have to get up and don my climbing boots. We are on a summit so if you do wear just the innards to the climbing boots or indeed the quilted boots that some wear inside their sleeping bags you could easily slip on the snow and literally slide thousands of feet to an untimely demise. A slightly more heroic end that the Airport Car Park, but pretty ignominious all the same.

I make my way to the small ‘dug out’ area which affords a measure of privacy for this unfortunate activity.

No solid waste can be left on the mountain so we are given a two bag system. The first is almost the same size as a black poly bag; it receives the material and is then placed within the sealable second bag. Quite an unpleasant affair. You then hope the entire ‘package’ freezes as you have to take it down with you to Base Camp.

Phew, what a relief that’s over. Back to my tent, music and book.

45 mins later....... No....... No Way...... NOT possible.

Another 10 mins   No...... No, No, No..........

Another 5 mins ......... I just CAN’T believe this.......

Another 3 mins........ On with boots...coat....and ‘package’.

We only have one ‘package’ each so...it has to be REUSED......

Where oh where is the glamour in this sport???

Its Beef Casserole and Dumplings for supper....

A curse to my genetic line that I don’t have the genes to allow my internals to close up after 5,800m of altitude for at least two days and off to sleep!

Weds 18^th April 2012 Lobuche Base Camp 4820m to Lobuche Summit 6000m

Up and ready for the ‘Le Mans’ start.

It’s quite unusual to climb the same mountain just 2 days after you have already climbed it, unless you are a guide.

Psychologically you know whets coming which can be a good and bad thing. You now the route but in this case you know where and when it’s going to hurt.

The boots feel slightly better on the first rocky part of the climb. I have reduced my pack weight by almost a half and feel the benefit of this. It is still hard.

I have loaded up with energy and snicker bars. I am going to try and eat at least 60g of carbohydrates an hour and am going to stop every 100m, after the first hour and a half (Camp One) to intake food and water... what we used to ‘March Discipline’. I have learnt that a man of my weight can burn up to 80/90 g of carbohydrates per hour on long term arduous exercise but the body can only digest about 50/60g per hour. It worth trying to minimise the ‘Carbo Gap’.

I really want to protect my health but do the best I can.

I reach Camp One without too much drama. On with crampons and strap on my ice axe which I left in one of the tents on the way down. I make a good change over but Jaco and Francis are already well ahead. It’s not long before Martin and Serge (our Russian Mountain Man....very experienced and very strong) come up and pass me as I am taking one of my 100m stops.

I am feeling ok but soon Wisey passes me about halfway up whilst I am munching my second Snickers and gulping water. It is now very hot as we are in the full glare of the morning sun.

The really steep final third is just as hard, or even harder, than two days ago. However I feel my technique is much improved and myself, Henry, Carl (both WWTW) and I climb the last section together. We round the corner to the last section to the summit. Whilst it has taken about 5 hours I get to the top with energy. I haven’t been quick, the times ranged between 3 and a half and five hours, but I have looked after myself. Hopefully I can eventually get rid of this infection.

I have the luxury of a single tent as Dan, my tent mate, was advised there was little point in coming up for a second time as he is the Media Man for WWTW and whilst wounded himself, he is not on the WWTW Everest Summit Team.

I put the two ground mats on top of each other and similarly the two sleeping bags. I have not bought a ‘modern’ sleeping mat to save weight as I always remember in the Arctic, with the Marines, finding the issued mats (which the Sherpas supply in the mountain tents) sufficient. Time will tell if this proves a good or bad call!

We have 14 tents perched on the mountain top. It is an extraordinary experience. ‘Outrageous’ exclaimed Henry, the WWTW mentor (almost the same age as me, ex Army Officer... now a banker ....but apart from that he is quite ok).

I rest and cough for the rest of the day. Interspersed with melting snow, cooking myself brews and boil in the bag foods.

Tonight was Chicken Casserole and Treacle Pudding in Syrup.

So far no real effects from altitude, just a slight pressure in my temples, not a headache so I don’t take anything for it and after a few hours it subsides.

This is the highest I have ever been but I sleep reasonable well. Waking up every 2 or 3 hours but going back to sleep almost immediately.   

Mon 16^th April 2012  Lobuche Camp One 5250m to Summit of  Lobuche 6,000m and down to Lobuche Base Camp 4820m

Up at 4.10am as we understood we are leaving for the summit at 5.30am. It seems like a lot of time but we have to boil enough snow for about 4 litres of drink between us and also some for our breakfast of ‘porridge oats in the bag’. Get dressed, pack our kit, clean the tent, morning ‘ablutions’ (teeth clean, definitely No 1’s, hopefully not, but possibly No 2s!) its just about enough.

We actually think we are doing really well, having eaten, got dressed and I am cleaning the cooking and eating utensils at 4.55am when Adrian the lead guide hollers...’5 mins to go....lets have you ready to go!’. What the blazes? Who? What? Where?..... We seem to have misheard the brief. We were the furthest tent away and the brief was given last night between tents. Not 5.30am departure but 5am!! Seems like a case of ‘Send Three and Four Pence we are going to a Dance’ (rather than ‘Send Reinforcements we are going to Advance’).

A scramble ensues. Something akin from the opening scene of Four Weddings and a Funeral the dialogue between Dan and I is....’F***.......F***.......F***,F***........F*** !!!!!!

20 minutes later we on our way. Crampons now affixed to these ‘Muck locks’ so they are even more unwieldy. We start on rock, thinly covered with snow and ice. Scratching and Scritching over this terrain is not easy....’F***......F***.....F***!!!’

The snow starts to get a bit deeper, which makes it easier and the first 45 minutes pass quite well as we calm down. We then start to encounter some more harder or technical parts accompanied with fixed ropes. Outside the glare of the guides I am much more efficient with my ‘Jumar’ and security.

It starts to get harder and we encounter an 80ft cliff which is almost vertical and I struggle up it with my two good arms and legs. Way above me Martin and Jaco from WWTW have scaled this piece much more easily than me with just ‘One’ arm!! Unbelievable.

Now after an hour and a half, as we get higher the terrain changes so that we are travelling just on compacted snow, which is better underfoot, but it starts to get steeper and harder to breath as we are at almost 20,000 ft.

It’s all about getting into a rhythm. As it gets to about 45% incline I am reduced to a breath in and out for 2 steps, as it gets to 50% it’s a breath in and out for one step (try it...its slow...I am old...I am 50...and feeling every single year)...at 55% its 2 whole breaths per step...at 60% its 3 breaths per step......to all intents and purposes stationary to the naked eye!

Thankfully and almost incredibly someone else from our team is going even slower than me. I am invited to pass them, I decline gracefully, thankful for some sort of respite for my cough ravaged lungs..

Eventually the summit is in sight and then reached. Cameras and welcoming smiles, manly hugs (it’s the done thing these days....not Gay at all). The view is truly breathtaking. We can see Everest, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, the whole of Everest Base Camp and the surrounding glaciers. The Himalayas in its full glory, there is surely no better, more beautiful natural spectacle on Earth.

Once again I am completely overcome with emotion, I step slightly to the side, drop to my knees and cry uncontrollably and unashamedly. It happened on Kilimanjaro, the Cosmic Arêtes, Mont Blanc. My thoughts always go to that sad night over 11 years ago, in Great Ormond Street Hospital, when we had to let go of our son Ben. He was only two months old, never got out of hospital but somehow his passing taught me to value everything and every day so much more.

From that day on I looked for the ‘Champagne Moment’ in every day. The moment something wonderful happened. It might be a herd of deer jumping fences in the dawn light, a flock of Canada Geese flying low over the garden in the twilight, the laughter of children playing football or an afternoon walk with friends.

He taught me to appreciate the moment, to cut away and forget about the mistakes, inequities and unfairness of the past. Not to worry about the future.  Do whatever you can now, this moment, this day, about anything that is worrying you.......then forget about those worries totally until the next day or the next action is needed. Focus on this moment in time, writing (or reading this blog), the conversation with your friend, savouring a great meal, reading to your child at night, fielding at long leg on a hazy, warm Sunday afternoon, appreciating the setting when you have been out first ball and have been taken off after one over having been hit for 28......... (I have had plenty of practise of this one !)

Ben’s death made me appreciate Annabelle who was two at the time. Taking time to listen to her, read those bedtime stories (which are always so bloody long) with care, patience and without rushing......especially when you are so tired at the end of a long office day and ache for a glass of wine a and a slob in front of the TV. Asking and listening to what she has been thinking, how she is feeling, what she is worried about, what she been delighted about....... of course Annabelle’s reading this thinking.........he’s been at the Whiskey again !!

I also think of the miracle of Alfie, born 5 years to the day after Ben was born. Now six years old and a boy’s boy. Besotted with balls, upsetting his sister, Bear Grylls, guns, the smell of petrol and the dissection of animals.

‘Jeez’ what sort of nonsense will I write if I ever get to the top of Everest....Stand by!!

After 40 mins at the top we then have to descend, which I haven’t done on a fixed line before. A request for a reminder of how to use a belay is met by a look to the heavens by one of the guides... I blame the altitude!

Going down is almost as hard as going up. Petter and Alexis go down with me, stifling giggles at my rubbish technique but I am very thankful of their help.

It has taken about 3 and a half hours to get up, I think it takes me almost 3 hours to get down.

I am exhausted. I am still coughing up green at the bottom and this infection has materially affected my performance which is quite frustrating and annoying. Normally at home in this condition I would only partake in very light tick over exercise, here I am going to the bottom of my lungs for almost 7 hours!

I sleep soundly for over 8 hours after a long volley of coughing and at one point fall asleep with a cough sweet in my mouth.....not such a good idea and probably as bad a way to go as in the Kathmandu International Airport Car park!