Saturday 14 April 2012

Sat 7th April 2012  Pheriche 4240m to Lobuche Base Camp 4820m


Wake up with a small headache at 5.30am and it’s definitely the smoke, which once again has invaded our room as I didn’t drink anything last night and the headache yesterday wore off after an hour or so.

Chimo later tells me that he has seen the staff burning plastic bottles in the fire. Great, it’s not as though we don’t have enough to deal with! The headache wears off just after breakfast.

Decide to get off in the first group today, give myself a bit of pain and deal with these Lobuche demons. 

The snow that fell yesterday has all but melted but its cold, well below freezing.

Brian, an American Guide and Pierre my roommate set off at a reasonable lick. Pierre was born a Frenchman but moved to the Midlands some 16 years ago and works for the Mercedes Formula One team as a mechanical engineer. A Brummy Frenchman with a delightful hybrid accent to match. ‘You oar right zis morninggg Mark’?.’ I add too mush Coq last night and add to piss by yur tent’

Now a strange thing is happening. As we yomp towards this Lobuche lump, the cloud that has been encircling it starts to clear and as we get closer I can see the route up. My fear starts to subside replaced by a renewed confidence. I can get up that.....Twice!

As we start to climb, the first of the two ‘grunts’ (as the steeper uphill sections are know by the Guides) I have to decide whether to keep up with these guys.

Brian has been at the back for most of the trek so in need of a blow out. Pierre summated Manaslo, another Himalayan peak of over 8,000m, without Oxygen in October and is one of, if not the strongest, of the group.

It’s a wee bit faster than perhaps I might have chosen to go but not uncomfortable and I still stop to take photographs and keep with them when they stop to take off clothing as we warm up.

We get to the half way point for a short break as Francis, Martin and Jaco from WWTW catch us up.

I must always remember ....this IS a race!!

We now tackle a steep 300m of vertical height grunt. We speed past numerous trekkers and reach the top, it’s a good pace but I have kept up, they all have about 20 years on me but haven’t managed to shake of the old codger at the back.

Sadly I realise this is probably the last time I will be able to keep up with them at pace, but I have enjoyed the moment and have felt no ill effects.

We are almost at the stop but at the top of the rise we have just cruised up a poignant moment. This area is littered with monuments both religious and to those that have died trying to climb Everest. Another reminder as if we need one!

I am greedy for life, I want to return. I won’t take any undue risks. I don’t need to climb this mountain, but I am enjoying every single step of this remarkable journey, easily the most incredible I have ever undertaken.


The Lobuche Base Camp appears a few minutes after we resume walking. It’s quite a spectacle. 50 two man and 8 large ‘mess’, kitchen and toilet tents. All in prominent, yellow, branded Himex (the expedition organisers) colours.

We were told to trek this morning would take between 3 to 5 hours. It has taken just 2 hours.

The boys from WWTW and Pierre are nothing short of ecstatic to be here. They throw themselves into the first mess tent, once they have washed their hands and sterilised in the open air sink unit, in order to minimise sickness within the camp. It’s  an Aladdin’s cave of Snickers bars, Pringles, M & Ms, Mints, Crunchies, Mars Bars, Energy Bars, Bounty’s etc . Plus hot water and an array of teas, breakfast, Assam, Earl ‘Gay’ (as it’s known), Rosehip Hibiscus, Lemon and Ginger, Peppermint, Taj Mahal, Strawberry, and Tila Azhar Infusions, whatever on earth they are!

We have one two man tent each. After 10 days of sharing rooms there is an added unprintable elation from the boys at this too.

Luxury ..... Shear luxury.

The rest of the day is spent lunching, chatting, unpacking our kit and admiring the Lobuche peak which towers above us.

1 comment:

  1. Glad to see there is a plentiful supply of Earl Gay - I have missed your blog last week as working in Germany but I shall catch up today. Steve C

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