Tuesday 3 April 2012

Monday 2nd April 1012 Namche Bazaar to Khumjung 3740m

Today we head off to for Khumjung after lunch so beforehand there is an opportunity to walk up to another Everest, sorry ‘Brenda’ , viewpoint about a 30 min climb away and visit a couple of small museums devoted to the Sherpa traditions and climbing history!

I decide to bag the museums first.

The Sherpa museum consists of a very small ground floor area stacked with perfectly formed dried Yak ‘poo pats’, used as fuel for fires! Who gets that job? Mummy. Mummy, I want to be a ‘Yak Poo Pat Collector’ when I grow up .... Well anything must be better than carrying those ridiculous heavy loads on your head up and down the mountain all day long

The upper floors show the various Sherpa cooking utensils and some brilliant English translations such as ‘spoon for do the butter’ and ‘pan in make porridge’.

Next door, behind a curtain is a small eight foot by eight foot room Buddhist shrine. There are beautiful carved Buddhas, detailed paintings and meticulously woven, brightly patterned fabrics. There is a single lit candle.

Immediately I am absorbed by a complete sense of calm and tranquillity. I am alone in this room and time stands still. It is a wonderful moment. A room devoted to peace, the ascendance to the Buddhist goal of Nirvana and preparation for the next life.

My head swims a little. The feeling of being somewhere I was always meant to visit. To most this is a shabby little curiosity but to me this place gives meaning to almost everything. A reflection on the creative ingenuity of humankind, the power of stillness and the virtue in leading a life of self improvement.....

The closet Buddhist in me has emerged again.....



In the adjacent buildings there is a photographic exhibition of the Sherpa people, their customs, clothes and beliefs. It moves me as you might now expect.

Lastly is an historic photographic and news paper cutting history of Everest and the many Sherpas who have set foot on it and many who have lost their lives.


I then hike up the path to the Everest viewpoint. This is a softly rounded hill at a conflux where the three valleys below meet, so that for the first time you experience almost a 360 degree view of the rivers below and the snow capped peaks above, and there nestled in the distance is Chomo Lungma, ( as Everest it known by the locals). meaning Mother Goddess of the World

Once again the sheer beauty of this place completely overwhelms me. Tears stream from my eyes; this is easily the most beautiful country I have ever visited.

I just gaze all around me, enjoying the wave of emotion and the natural splendour which envelopes me.

 Sorry Annabelle, Alfie, Olivia, Mum, Dad your Dad/Boyfriend/Son is a bit of a cry baby but you come out here and see how you feel !




Its lunch and an hour and half trek up to Khumjung. Our first proper encounter with the Yaks




 and some strange mountain footwear.




Khumjung is the home of the Edmund Hilary School and Phurba Tashi who is probably the most famous Sherpa after Tensing having climbed the world’s highest peak an incredible 19 times.

We are staying in his lodge. and whilst providing the most rudimentary of accommodation to date also offers a ‘Dinning Room’ of utmost warmth, atmosphere and genuine Sherpa hospitality.

We eat another hearty meal and its bed at 1030...another 8 hours of sleep. It’s like being on holiday!

More about Khumjung tomorrow.

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