Sat 28^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m to Camp 2 6500m

I didn’t have time to post the experience of the previous group’s journey up to Camp 2. On the way through the Icefall they were narrowly missed by two avalanches / ice breakaways. Either of which could have been fatal. Then when the whole group, apart from Annie and Amanda (who had turned back to stay at Camp 1) had passed amp 1 they were again narrowly missed by a huge avalanche off the Nuptse (right hand side) face. This was so large that the ensuing snow blast and cloud flowed all the way down the Icefield and caused us to rush out of our briefing assuming there had been a massive failure within the Icefield and tens of people had been caught in it.

Incredibly, because it was just after ‘Sherpa Rush Hour’ and sheer good luck, only one Sherpa was caught in it. He was picked up and dumped in a crevasse and was found within the hour suffering from three broken ribs, a fractured skull and hypothermia. He was helicoptered out and is recovering in Kathmandu. If Annie and Amanda had not turned back they would have been caught in the middle of it and would not have stood much of a chance.

Friday afternoon I wrote a hasty will and wrote letters to my children, Olivia and my parents with instructions where to find them on my computer should something happen to me.

I was worried, as were we all. I don’t want to die just yet, but I am not pulling out and will accept the fortunes and fate which await me. I am greedy for life but not willing to step into a bag of cotton wool just yet.

Its times like this which teach you the value of life, what is important to you, what your priorities really are. Suddenly climbing this mountain is not THAT important. Other things are much more important.

No matter, I am still going to face my fears and climb tomorrow.

Up at 12am for a 1am departure.

Every single detail and action planned to the minute. Up dressed and about to get to breakfast bang on time when ...... yup you’ve guessed it. Nature calls, there is a queue so by the time I get to the mess tent for porridge and hot chocolate I am just about the last to arrive!

‘C’mon Mark, you should have eaten by now’ Russ encourages! Mild stress builds up, I multi task, putting on my harness and repacking kit whilst gulping spoonfuls of porridge and hot chocolate. Just like being back in the bloody Royal Marines!

I am ready, five minutes before the deadline! Where is Russ to offer apologetic praise now?

We set off; it’s cold but not too cold, about minus 10 Degrees C.

It’s a 25 minute walk to the crampon point, the pace is reasonable. We don our crampons as we take to the Icefield, off the rocky path, then the pace quickens somewhat.

I keep up for the first hour but then the group splits effectively in two with me in the second group. We encounter our first large crevasse, spanned by two ladders bound together and secured with two ‘safety lines’ either side into which we clip in. Should we fall hopefully these lines will ensure we don’t fall hundreds of feet to our death.

The first wobbly crevasse crossing under our belts the Icefield steepens as we continue through what is known as the smaller ‘popcorn’. These are blocks of ice which stand between 1 to 2m high. After almost 2 hours we encounter the larger popcorn, ice blocks of between 2 to 4m high. More ladder crossings (there are some 25 such crossings in the Icefield). Any of these blocks might fall at any time and if they do, one is ‘toast’. The exertion of the climb does a great job of keeping any fear at bay.

We then reach a relatively flat open ‘safe’ area known as ‘the football field’ after almost three hours.

Here we take a quick break as from this point, for the next 50 minutes or so comes the most dangerous passage of the Icefield. The group which came through the previous night had two ice avalanches which they had to avoid and which rattled quite a few of the climbers and guides.

As we progress up this quite steep section the evidence of previous ice falls is obvious. Great blocks the size of fridges strewn in a long path through which we have to pick our way. Fixed lines partly submerged from previous falls and new rope hastily fixed to replace them.

As I round a corner there is suddenly a loud rumbling from high up ahead. I am midway through the main rubble covered path of a great many previous avalanches. My worst fears may have come to be. I have no obvious cover. I look up ahead expecting to see a great white wave heading towards me. I am tired and with nowhere to go I just accept my fate. A very strange acceptance, if death is to be now then I feel a strange peace. The wait is only seconds but it feels like minutes.

 Luckily the fall has not come down my channel and I am spared. I continue upwards.

I later learn that the group up ahead hear one big crack and rumble but see nothing. Then a few minutes later there is much bigger crack and rumble followed by a major ice fall (which is what I heard). In a rather comical manner (in retrospect) three of our climbers and two Sherpas ended up taking separate evasive action seeking sanctuary on top of the same large ice block to the right of the path of the avalanche. There was a Tom and Jerry style scramble in which it was every man for himself but only room for barely three of the five as the ice and snow stream and ensuing cloud enveloped them all. The last two having to cling to the rear side of the block as best they could. All avoided injury.

Onwards and upwards I plod. Across the crevasses, ladders, until we reach the safety point of a large crevasse crossing known as ‘Blood and Guts ladder’. Sadly, some ten days previously a Sherpa from another team had not clipped onto the safety lines and had fallen. He sustained a major head injury and when recovering the body his blood had covered the sides of the crevasse. Another gory reminder of the dangers of this mountain.

As we neared Camp 1 we encountered a very cold wind which after the quite hard and sweaty work of the Icefield chilled to the very bone and a number of our group took refuge in one of the Camp 1 tents at 6,100m. Its 6am, we have been climbing for 5 hours.

We boil water and try and eat something, the wind has really picked up and it’s almost 7am before we continue onto Camp 2.

Almost immediately I begin to feel weak. The stop really hasn’t done me any good and our group of five splits into two with myself and Carl (one of the WWTW) at the back. I think the relief of surviving the Icefall has taken its toll as well.

After an hour we can see our destination, or so we think. The immense beauty of the Western Cwm is just about lost on me as I struggle for energy along the snowfield which leads up the middle, then veers off to left-hand side to the string of some hundred tents which make up Camp 2.

When we are about 300m from the nearest tents I radio in our position and estimate that we will be in camp within 30 mins. Adrian (chief guide), upon hearing this quickly corrects my eta as 1 hour 45 mins. I am too tired to respond but assume he has made a mistake.

He hasn’t. We are the very last camp in the line and Carl and I arrive exhausted, at about 11am. The sun has been out for the last hour and a half and transformed the valley from an icy wind blown freezer to an oven hot inferno in a matter of minutes.

On entering the mess tent I am very emotional with exhaustion and relief at ........well still being alive. Everyone has found it hard but Carl and I are totally and utterly drained.

Lunch is served at 1230pm. I have just sat, head on the table or in my hands trying to rehydrate and recover, hardly speaking for an hour and a half. I eat some of the lunch then make my way to the tent to collapse for a few hours. With no energy I accept the uncomfortable large rocks underneath my bed mat and just curl up around them to minimise the discomfort.

Supper at 5.30pm. I manage to eat all of it. Carl is still in a bad way

I get back to my tent at 7pm. I have the energy to move some rocks. Asleep by 8pm, I sleep the sleep of the dead until 8am. I am feeling much, much better. I might still be able to climb this mountain after all!