Sat 28^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m to Camp 2 6500m

I didn’t have time to post the experience of the previous group’s journey up to Camp 2. On the way through the Icefall they were narrowly missed by two avalanches / ice breakaways. Either of which could have been fatal. Then when the whole group, apart from Annie and Amanda (who had turned back to stay at Camp 1) had passed amp 1 they were again narrowly missed by a huge avalanche off the Nuptse (right hand side) face. This was so large that the ensuing snow blast and cloud flowed all the way down the Icefield and caused us to rush out of our briefing assuming there had been a massive failure within the Icefield and tens of people had been caught in it.

Incredibly, because it was just after ‘Sherpa Rush Hour’ and sheer good luck, only one Sherpa was caught in it. He was picked up and dumped in a crevasse and was found within the hour suffering from three broken ribs, a fractured skull and hypothermia. He was helicoptered out and is recovering in Kathmandu. If Annie and Amanda had not turned back they would have been caught in the middle of it and would not have stood much of a chance.

Friday afternoon I wrote a hasty will and wrote letters to my children, Olivia and my parents with instructions where to find them on my computer should something happen to me.

I was worried, as were we all. I don’t want to die just yet, but I am not pulling out and will accept the fortunes and fate which await me. I am greedy for life but not willing to step into a bag of cotton wool just yet.

Its times like this which teach you the value of life, what is important to you, what your priorities really are. Suddenly climbing this mountain is not THAT important. Other things are much more important.

No matter, I am still going to face my fears and climb tomorrow.

Up at 12am for a 1am departure.

Every single detail and action planned to the minute. Up dressed and about to get to breakfast bang on time when ...... yup you’ve guessed it. Nature calls, there is a queue so by the time I get to the mess tent for porridge and hot chocolate I am just about the last to arrive!

‘C’mon Mark, you should have eaten by now’ Russ encourages! Mild stress builds up, I multi task, putting on my harness and repacking kit whilst gulping spoonfuls of porridge and hot chocolate. Just like being back in the bloody Royal Marines!

I am ready, five minutes before the deadline! Where is Russ to offer apologetic praise now?

We set off; it’s cold but not too cold, about minus 10 Degrees C.

It’s a 25 minute walk to the crampon point, the pace is reasonable. We don our crampons as we take to the Icefield, off the rocky path, then the pace quickens somewhat.

I keep up for the first hour but then the group splits effectively in two with me in the second group. We encounter our first large crevasse, spanned by two ladders bound together and secured with two ‘safety lines’ either side into which we clip in. Should we fall hopefully these lines will ensure we don’t fall hundreds of feet to our death.

The first wobbly crevasse crossing under our belts the Icefield steepens as we continue through what is known as the smaller ‘popcorn’. These are blocks of ice which stand between 1 to 2m high. After almost 2 hours we encounter the larger popcorn, ice blocks of between 2 to 4m high. More ladder crossings (there are some 25 such crossings in the Icefield). Any of these blocks might fall at any time and if they do, one is ‘toast’. The exertion of the climb does a great job of keeping any fear at bay.

We then reach a relatively flat open ‘safe’ area known as ‘the football field’ after almost three hours.

Here we take a quick break as from this point, for the next 50 minutes or so comes the most dangerous passage of the Icefield. The group which came through the previous night had two ice avalanches which they had to avoid and which rattled quite a few of the climbers and guides.

As we progress up this quite steep section the evidence of previous ice falls is obvious. Great blocks the size of fridges strewn in a long path through which we have to pick our way. Fixed lines partly submerged from previous falls and new rope hastily fixed to replace them.

As I round a corner there is suddenly a loud rumbling from high up ahead. I am midway through the main rubble covered path of a great many previous avalanches. My worst fears may have come to be. I have no obvious cover. I look up ahead expecting to see a great white wave heading towards me. I am tired and with nowhere to go I just accept my fate. A very strange acceptance, if death is to be now then I feel a strange peace. The wait is only seconds but it feels like minutes.

 Luckily the fall has not come down my channel and I am spared. I continue upwards.

I later learn that the group up ahead hear one big crack and rumble but see nothing. Then a few minutes later there is much bigger crack and rumble followed by a major ice fall (which is what I heard). In a rather comical manner (in retrospect) three of our climbers and two Sherpas ended up taking separate evasive action seeking sanctuary on top of the same large ice block to the right of the path of the avalanche. There was a Tom and Jerry style scramble in which it was every man for himself but only room for barely three of the five as the ice and snow stream and ensuing cloud enveloped them all. The last two having to cling to the rear side of the block as best they could. All avoided injury.

Onwards and upwards I plod. Across the crevasses, ladders, until we reach the safety point of a large crevasse crossing known as ‘Blood and Guts ladder’. Sadly, some ten days previously a Sherpa from another team had not clipped onto the safety lines and had fallen. He sustained a major head injury and when recovering the body his blood had covered the sides of the crevasse. Another gory reminder of the dangers of this mountain.

As we neared Camp 1 we encountered a very cold wind which after the quite hard and sweaty work of the Icefield chilled to the very bone and a number of our group took refuge in one of the Camp 1 tents at 6,100m. Its 6am, we have been climbing for 5 hours.

We boil water and try and eat something, the wind has really picked up and it’s almost 7am before we continue onto Camp 2.

Almost immediately I begin to feel weak. The stop really hasn’t done me any good and our group of five splits into two with myself and Carl (one of the WWTW) at the back. I think the relief of surviving the Icefall has taken its toll as well.

After an hour we can see our destination, or so we think. The immense beauty of the Western Cwm is just about lost on me as I struggle for energy along the snowfield which leads up the middle, then veers off to left-hand side to the string of some hundred tents which make up Camp 2.

When we are about 300m from the nearest tents I radio in our position and estimate that we will be in camp within 30 mins. Adrian (chief guide), upon hearing this quickly corrects my eta as 1 hour 45 mins. I am too tired to respond but assume he has made a mistake.

He hasn’t. We are the very last camp in the line and Carl and I arrive exhausted, at about 11am. The sun has been out for the last hour and a half and transformed the valley from an icy wind blown freezer to an oven hot inferno in a matter of minutes.

On entering the mess tent I am very emotional with exhaustion and relief at ........well still being alive. Everyone has found it hard but Carl and I are totally and utterly drained.

Lunch is served at 1230pm. I have just sat, head on the table or in my hands trying to rehydrate and recover, hardly speaking for an hour and a half. I eat some of the lunch then make my way to the tent to collapse for a few hours. With no energy I accept the uncomfortable large rocks underneath my bed mat and just curl up around them to minimise the discomfort.

Supper at 5.30pm. I manage to eat all of it. Carl is still in a bad way

I get back to my tent at 7pm. I have the energy to move some rocks. Asleep by 8pm, I sleep the sleep of the dead until 8am. I am feeling much, much better. I might still be able to climb this mountain after all!

Fri 27^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Briefing on the treacherous Khumbu Icefall

Bags packed

Shower....whilst Monca wasnt looking.....

We leave at 1am Saturday morning.

All a bit nervous.

6 nights on the mountain, four at Camp 2, one at Camp 3, one at Camp 2 then Base Camp.

More later!!!!

Thurs 26^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Feeling a bit better today but I am not going to do any more ice training, which is scheduled for this afternoon and tonight. The Icefall is not very technical so I feel comfortable with my skills, its much more important that I am well rested and get through Saturday morning well.

I spend time in the White Pod, reading, blogging and emailing. Business seems to be thriving in my absence which is both reassuring and ominous!

We have to select our food for the six nights away. Whilst we will get food at Camp 2 we still need it for 8 to 9 hours on Saturday and for the trip to and night on camp 3.

After lunch I try to take a shower but am accused by the Camp Doctor, a Spanish woman of origin called Monica that I am being ‘selfish’.... despite the fact that all the other team have showered and I was waiting in line behind the Guides. She makes this accusation in front of two other members (paying clients), both in my group who I later discover found this quite funny. I leave the situation as I can feel my blood boiling. I have felt from the start that this woman doesn’t like me and later when I discuss this with other members there is a general dislike of her.

If I want someone to talk to me in that way ...I can always pick up the phone to my ex wife!

I go to my tent to rest and pack for Saturday.

So when she appears at dinner in our tent I say...’Oh here’s the ‘Shower Monitor (Monica....get it)’’....... to which she retorts ‘if you think I am going to apologies I am not, you will just have to get over it’.

A thoroughly professional response from our Camp Doctor.....NOT!

On a lighter note a stray dog that had befriended our camp for the past week was taken 5 miles down the valley today by a kindly Base Camper who the knew the dog from the previous year.

This Labrador 'mongrel' had been creeping into tents and indeed sleeping bags at night much to the surprise, concern and indeed anger of many people. If you raised your voice to it or picked up a stone (who would do that) it gave its best 'Mutley' impression and you couldnt but take pity on it.

Well about five hours after it left and we felt safe leaving our tents open to air..... it had returned !!!

Sleep at about 9.15pm. Awoken at 12pm by the other group leaving but soon asleep again and awake at 6.45am to a very, very frosty tent.

Weds 25^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

I would have married 14 years today if I hadn’t been divorced earlier this month!

After breakfast we are given a briefing and the groups are confirmed.

Basically the groups are to stay the same, although our group will begin to climb after the other group.

There are some concerns over the state of the icefall but we are all aware that this part of the climb can never be guaranteed as completely safe but we will start through it at 1am so as to go at the safest time.

We are now scheduled to leave here at 1am on Sat 28^th April; the other group will leave at 1am on Fri 27^th April (i.e. tonight).

We will aim to reach Camp 2 which is at 6,400m, so the climb is a similar vertical height to the Base Camp to Lobuche summit but the terrain is more technical, we are at a much greater altitude and the linear distance is far greater. We have to pass Camp 1 at the top of the Icefall by 7am otherwise we may not be allowed to progress to Camp 2. This is because beyond the Icefall is the Western Cym where the geography dictates that this amazing natural spectacle often becomes an airless suntrap with temperatures reaching up to 40 deg C. Slowing progress of even the most hardened athlete to almost a halt.

We then aim to spend 4 nights at Camp 2 before climbing to Camp 3, halfway up the steep Lhotse Face at some 7,300m (over 24,000ft) and attempting to spend the night there, perched on a hewn out ledge, over a 3,000ft drop before descending to Camp 2 the following morning.

One more night at Camp 2 then a descent back to Base Camp. We should return on the morning of Fri 4^th May!

I go to lunch, feeling hungry and it’s Pacific Salmon with salad and a pasta salad. I am a bit late but devour loads when I then find out we are scheduled to take a 3 hour trip into the lower reaches of the Icefall.

I then have to hurry my lunch, hurry to get rigged and am in the appointed time, properly togged up to have to wait for someone else who also did not get the brief.

Consequently we set off at quite a lick to cover a 30 min hike to the start of the ice in 20 min. My stomach is not happy; usually this would pass so I soldier on. We get to the Icefall, don crampons and start clambering up, down and around ice formations. I now have a painful stitch, I drop back a little, the stitch becomes a stomach cramp, which then becomes a retch...... I am forced to a halt. Another retch and a partial vomit... I try to go on but it’s no use.

Now what would my Mum say..... Excessive physical exertion immediately after a big meal? For the first time in 50 years and some 33 years after I left home...Mum ...you were right.

I turn around and slowly, feeling like something out of Napoleons Army on the retreat from the failed campaign on Moscow, I retrace our steps slowly.

I am feeling absolutely awful. Stopping every 100m to bend over and try and ease the pain. All energy escapes me and a return trip which should take me some 45 mins takes almost an hour and a half.

Everyone passes me.

I collapse into my tent at about 4pm and don’t emerge until breakfast the following day.

Children.....listen to your Mums!!!!! 

PS We had our first retiree depart this morning, Chimu who I shared with a room with early on in the trek in. A really, really nice guy who has quite a large property rental business in Texas, five children and has set up a charity helping Peruvian homeless. He is travelling with his family in Europe in June / July and I hope he will pop by on his travels. He did the first half of the trip, but found it a bit taxing, acquired a knee injury but just decided he didn’t want or need it enough so called in a chopper. He also donated an additional $10,000, half to a Sherpa Charity and half to be shared between the Sherpas. A lovely guy who was big enough and courageous enough to make the call to quit when his heart was no longer in it.

Tues 24^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Rest Day

Another awesome sleep of some 7 hours solid, obviously helped by the antics and alcohol of last night.

Today we have the ‘Puja’. This is the traditional Buddhist ceremony held before we set foot on Everest, Chomolungma, Mother Goddess of the Earth.

It is to give us good luck and assist our safe return.

After breakfast, at about 10am, we assemble around the cairn like construction of stones which marks the entrance to our camp and is decorated with fags and ribbons. It has a form of altar and on one side Juniper is burnt on a small fire to provide incense!

All over this part of Nepal there are lots monuments and brightly coloured lines of flags strung from rock to rock. As these flutter in the breeze they are supposed to bring good luck.

There are some 50 climbers and 20 trekkers here and along with the climbing Sherpas and camp staff we must number some 125 people.

All the climbing Sherpas are dressed smartly in black trousers, their bright blue down Himex wind proofs, white Himex caps and wraparound sunglasses... ‘Tres Cool’.. They are sat neatly in rows in front of the ‘Altar’. The ones to the left hand side lightly splutter as periodically they are engulfed in Juniper smoke as the light wind constantly shifts and swirls.

Everyone is encouraged to place an object on or near the ‘Altar’ to have it blessed. A lot of people choose ice axes, harnesses and boots. Some choose something a little more sentimental like photographs and jewellery. Bizarrely someone even had one ‘Ipad 3’ blessed, which is going to the summit! I had a very special small stone placed on the ‘Altar’, which I hope to leave on the summit.

The Sherpas start to chant, a low hum, tea is poured for everyone, and rice is handed around.

At various parts of what turns out to be an hour and a half ceremony rice is thrown in the air.

Of course all the boys from WWTW take this as an opportunity, like errant schoolboys in morning chapel, to throw rice at their colleagues, trying to get it in their hair and down their necks. As its quite fun, I join in a little. Whilst there is an air of formality we have been encouraged to take photographs and move around as we please. Our rice throwing silliness is taken in good heart. Others have also joined in, even the odd Sherpa or two!

It’s another glorious sunny morning and the setting is unique and moving.

As the chants come to an end, trays of food and pastries are handed around, together with beakers of white rice wine and tots of whiskey. I am not sure this rice wine is an export opportunity and I am quite relieved when Wisey makes me ‘neck the remainder in one go.

It tastes like alcoholic rice milk.....er.... which is what it is!!

Then everyone starts to wish each other good luck. Everyone is respectful of this mountain and especially the notorious Khumbu Icefall and this ceremony is all about a safe return.

We all shake hands, wish each other good luck and as is the modern way, men are hugged by men as much as women. No kisses.... though you are on your guard with Pierre our tame Frenchmen and Serge our Russian Bear.

There is an incredible air of goodwill, friendliness, fellowship and happiness in the air. In this extraordinary setting, surrounded by towering white peaks, huge glaciers and rock piles, we meek and fragile humans have come together with the sole purpose of climbing these massive mountains. We need luck on our side.

Taking ourselves out of our armchairs, accepting the risks and accepting the challenge to just experience something different. To find out how our bodies will cope, how far we can get, what it will be like up there and how we  might feel.

Once again I am overcome with a huge emotion, one of genuine happiness that 130 odd people can feel so at peace with each other, united in an understanding as to what and why we are doing this. Once again the sunglasses come in handy as a tear emerges. These ex boot necks are complete cry babies!!

I came on this trip expecting to meet the classic unsatisfied, insecure persons who hoped to complete themselves by getting to the top of the world’s highest mountain. After 4 weeks and lots of chats over meals, on the trek, in tents and over beers I have been gladly disappointed.

These people are just hungry for life, maybe greedy for life. To a person, this mountain is just another small step on their life’s journey. These are people who have flourishing careers, large successful businesses, families, who give and raise money for good causes. Vain enough to compete in marathons, iron man triathlons and all manner of sporting excellence but people who ordinarily would not have the chance to experience all that that climbing this mountain has to offer without an organisation like Himex.

The WWTW guys too have the opportunity to maximise their chances of reaching the summit and minimise the chances of injuring their bodies further.

Some ‘proper’ climbers are disparaging about commercial mountain enterprises such as these. I read Reinhold Messners book on his first ascent of Everest without oxygen in 1978.

Whilst I admire him as probably the world’s greatest mountaineer, did he start a business from scratch in China, now employing 350 people and raise a family of two children, did he start up a company in the US now employing 150 people and raise a family of five children, did he ever become CEO of a listed company in New Zealand or head up the Civil Engineering department for an Australian State. The list goes on.

None of us could or wanted to be professional climbers but are fortunate enough to be able to experience something of their world. We are grateful.

I rest in the afternoon, catch up on emails.

It’s been a lovely day. I think I will sleep well.....I do, almost 8 hours straight!

Mon 23^th April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Blogging and emailing this morning.

Today some 10 climbers and about 20 trekkers have joined us. The trekkers have a couple of WWTW guys who didn’t make the WWTW Everest team. Andy and Chris. They seem nice guys.

At supper time the camp is full and in the evening we have the privilege of the famous Mr Russel Bryce for company. He has something on his mind tonight as he doesn’t want the usual film being shown in the White Pod and the red wine box in our mess tent is determinedly proffered by him to all. This wine is even worse than the last one we finished.

We are made to finish this one too. I manage to get away with about 3 glasses. Once the taste goes, the edge is definitely taken off the world. Which is pleasant.

As we emerge from out dining tent we are greeted by sounds of jolly people and popular dance music from the White Pod just up above us. In fact as we go inside there is a full on night club in swing.

It only gets worse, flashing head torches are affixed to the walls; beers are handed out at random. Russ decides to ‘Formula One’ a bottle of Champagne...those nearest get drenched and then. the bottle is passed around open foaming mouths!

Woody (one of the head guides) strips to his wiry waist and scales the inside of the White Pod, which is at least 15ft at its highest, using the metal frame to do his best orang-utan impression, swinging by one arm and then one leg. A plethora of concerned drinkers link arms underneath him for when he comes crashing down.

Surprisingly he makes a safe unaided return and shortly after Russ makes his entrance now redressed in suit and tie and gives a solo virtuoso resembling an amateur break dancer who is receiving a 500v electric shock ....... now I know where Chris Dovell gets his dancing technique from!

Thankfully the electrical power runs out at 1145pm and we all have to retire to our tents.

Sun 22nd April 2012 Everest Base Camp 5300m

Not great sleep, often wake up about 4.30am feeling cold. Rubbish sleeping bag.....-30 deg C......pah, salesmen !

Spent the morning on the blog. It takes ages doing this blog but thanks for the positive feedback, clearly the most amusing part so far seems to be the double No 2s on the summit of Lobuche! Ok so now I know were the sweet spot is for my readers I can compose accordingly!

After  lunch we have a treat, the guides have set up an ‘Icicle Obstacle Course’ which we will go and play on this afternoon.

This consists of 30ft ascents, traverses and descents, together with up and down ladders and a horizontal ladder to simulate a crevasse crossing. This is to practice all our techniques we may need in the icefall.

We spend just under two hours with one group going one way and another going the other way, then everyone turning around and doing it in reverse, crossing each other in the process, which is fun.

It really teaches you how important technique is at this altitude, if your crampons slip on the near vertical ice the weight is often transferred to your arms as well as the other leg and any large exertion needs a lot of panting to recover from.

We all agree every fun park should have one and kids would love it.

I get some rest when we get back; it was really good training but quite tiring too.

Movie tonight is Zombieland. Lots and lots and lots of Zombies dies, but the four heroes and heroines don’t!